| - Coolant change, at least for the fluid that's drained to remove the radiator for the t-belt job. - Upper and lower radiator hoses, you'll have them off anyway. - New drive belts -- alternator, AC, etc. - Use the oppty to clean BOTH radiators (coolant and AC) of debris, leaves, etc lodged in the fins. The AC radiator picks up a lot of stuff over time -- reverse spraying of water (hose or garden sprayer) from behind will get a lot out. - Good time to relocate your PTU to clean up the look of the engine bay. Harness is long enough to relocate it into the nose area (under the removable panel for the air box filter). Easiest to do with the radiator out of the car. - While radiator is out of car, take a look at bottom support bar it rests on. They often get rusty - I Dremel wire brushed all of it, applied some rust neutralizer, primed it and then sprayed the whole thing with rubber truck bed liner spray. Not something that's super critical to do -- but figured I'd point it out... - As others have mentioned, I'd do the 120k service instead of the 60k (just do to age of car). FYI: Front crank seal can start to leak in the 80k mileage range - so worth taking care of now. - Here's a good one too: If you do the full 120k service which includes the intake and exhaust CAM seals. You'll have easy access to the short fuel rail hose that's underneath the NISSAN plastic engine cover plate (it connects the two sides of the injector fuel rail together). That hose should be replaced along with some new clamps. Make sure the clamps are installed with the screws orientated in a direction that allows tool access for tightening AFTER everything is put back together. Take a look at things before all is pulled apart and you'll see how this should be done and/or walk thru it with whatever shop you end up using.... I think I got most of it?....
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20:48:40 12/11/09
